Chikubushima Shrine

Tsukubusuma Shrine is located on Chikubushima Island in Lake Biwa. Also called Chikubushima Shrine, the deity is Chikubushima itself.

There are several theories about the deity, but the four deities are Ichikishima-hime (Benzaiten), Ugafukujin, Ryujin (Dragon God), and Asai-hime. Asai Hime-no-mikoto is the clan deity of the Asai clan and is regarded as the deity who controls the waters of Lake Biwa.

According to the Shiga Prefectural Shinto Shrine Office and Nagahama City, the two deities of Tsukubusuma Shrine are Ichikishima Hime-no-mikoto (one of the three Munakata Goddesses) and Ugafukujin (another name for Uga Bensaiten).

There is also a black dragon hall that enshrines Asai Hime-no-mikoto (the god of production) and the dragon god (the black dragon, one of the eight great dragon kings).

450 years ago, the Nipporigoden (Imperial Villa) of Fushimi-Momoyama Castle was moved to the temple and became a national treasure, thanks to a donation by Toyotomi Hideyori, with Katagiri Katsumoto as the fudoken (official in charge of building construction). Kawarake throwing is performed from the hall of worship.

In the past, it was combined with Hogonji Temple and called Chikubujima Benzaiten Shrine or Chikubujima Gongen. It is also known as one of the three great benzaiten shrines in Japan and one of the five great benzaiten shrines in Japan.

Kuroryu-do is located in the precincts of Hogonji Temple and is a small Shinto shrine in architectural style, with a torii gate built in front. Two deities, Kuroryu Daishin and Kuroryu Hime Daishin, are enshrined in Kuroryudo, which is located near a sacred tree associated with the Kuroryu legend.

Crossing the boat corridor from the Hogonji Kannon Hall, you will come to the side of the main shrine of Tsukubusuma Shrine. In front of the main shrine there are stone steps leading down to the worship hall of Tsukubusuma Shrine.

Here, a straw-throwing ceremony is held. It is said that if you write your wish on a small unglazed plate and throw it toward the torii gate standing on the rocky shore, your wish will come true when you pass through the gate. Please try it!

The present main shrine is an irimoya-style building with a full cypress bark roof. Mukouden is located in front of the main hall. Since its construction, it has been destroyed by fire several times, but was rebuilt during the Warring States Period.

The building is a complex structure with karahafu (Chinese gables) on the front and rear sides and eaves around the perimeter. Inside, there are fusuma paintings and a painted ceiling by Mitsunobu Kano. The beautifully painted flowers of the four seasons are impressive. The maki-e lacquerwork of flowers and birds on a black lacquer ground is also magnificent.

Tsukubusuma Shrine The deity of the main shrine is Asaihime-no-mikoto, the ruler of the lake. Before the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in 1871, the shrine was called Chikubushima Myojin or Chikubushima Benzaitensha and was related to Hogonji Temple.

The main shrine was destroyed by fire several times since its construction, but was rebuilt during the Warring States period (1467-1568), after which Toyotomi Hideyori had the Nippori-goten (Nipporo-goten) at Fushimi Castle relocated and renovated.

The building was then relocated and remodeled by Toyotomi Hideyori from the Nippori-goten of Fushimi Castle.

Inside, there are sliding door paintings and a painted ceiling by Mitsunobu Kano. In particular, the kakuto ceiling with 60 kakuma (sliding doors) beautifully depicts the petals of the four seasons with a delicate touch on a gold background. The pillars, floor, and nagoshi (long chopsticks) are decorated with maki-e lacquer with flower-and-bird patterns on a black lacquer ground, conveying the atmosphere of the glamorous and gorgeous Momoyama culture to the present.

The island is at its most lively during the Chikubujima Festival, an old-fashioned festival held from June 10 to 15. It is about a 7-minute walk from Chikubujima Port.

Main Shrine [National Treasure

The main hall of the Tsukubusuma (Chikubujima) Shrine is a relocated version of the Sokurikishiden of Fushimi-Momoyama Castle, donated by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and is designated as a national treasure. The interior is elegantly and brilliantly decorated, and is a representative building of the Momoyama period. The 60 ceiling paintings are by Kano Eitoku Mitsunobu, and the black lacquered katsura nagasho are decorated with gold maki-e. The inner sanctuary is currently closed to visitors.

Jogyouden

This is a training hall built by Genpei Kizawa in 1997, and is also used as a place for visitors to pray and for tea ceremonies. Here, visitors can relax and forget the hustle and bustle of daily life while having a smoke.

Ryujin Worship Center

The Ryujin Worship Center is located in the protruding part of the hall of worship. It faces Lake Biwa and has the most spectacular view of Chikubu Island. Here, visitors can write their wishes on earthenware vessels and throw the vessels into the Miyazaki torii gate protruding from the lake. It is also said that if the Kawarake pass through the torii, your wish will come true.

Chikubu Island

This mysterious island of faith is located off the northern shore of Lake Biwa. Since ancient times, Asaihime-no-mikoto has been enshrined here and worshipped as a water goddess and as a deity that protects the safe passage of ships.

It is the second largest island in Lake Biwa, with a circumference of about 2 km. Although it is a small island, the island itself is made of one huge piece of granite.

Chikubushima is one of the eight scenic spots of Lake Biwa, and appears in the Heike Monogatari (Tale of the Heike) and in the Song of Songs as a beautiful island, and even after more than 1,000 years, its appearance continues to fascinate people. It is one of the most famous power spots in the Kansai region and is visited by many people.

Highlights

The interior of the main hall is said to be the remains of Fushimi Castle, and the sliding doors, pillars, and transoms are decorated with elegant and beautiful ornaments typical of the Momoyama period (1573-1600). The sliding doors and 60 ceiling paintings in particular are said to be the work of Kano Mitsunobu. The black-lacquered katsura-nagoshi are decorated with gold maki-e (Kodaiji maki-e), and elaborate metal fittings are used in key places (however, viewing of the inner sanctuary is currently suspended).

Jogyouden is located to the far right of the main hall and is often overlooked. This building was constructed in 1997 by Genpei Kizawa and is currently used as a training hall and place for visiting. Depending on the season, a tea ceremony room is set up where visitors can relax and enjoy a cup of tea. Please relax and forget the hustle and bustle of daily life.

Access

Chikubujima is accessible by regular flights from “Nagahama Port,” “Imazu Port,” and “Hikone Port. Free parking is available at each port. It takes about 30 minutes from Nagahama Port or Imazu Port to Chikubujima, and you can take a regular cruise called “Chikubujima Cruise” by Lake Biwa Kisen. The trip from Hikone Port to Chikubujima takes 40 minutes and is operated by Omi Marine.

Hogonji Temple and the Tsukubusuma Shrine are located on Chikubujima, and the temple complex of Hogonji Temple can be seen in the center of the approach from Chikubujima Port through a stone torii gate.

The shrine building of Tsukubusuma Shrine consists of the main hall (on the left) and a regular hall (on the right), with a white wall that stands out during renovations. Also visible are the torii gates of the eight great dragon king worship halls.

The surrounding waters are deep in Lake Biwa, and its beautiful scenery has been selected as one of the “Eight Scenic Views of Lake Biwa” as “deep green Chikubujima no Chinkage”.

There are multiple records of the Chikubu Island’s origins. The Shohei Engi, the earliest known Chikubujima Engi, is said to have been established in 931 during the late Heian period (794-1192). There are also the Oei Enki, the Iwakanezan Taishinguji Gigyo, and the Chikubujima Enki.

According to the Jouhei Engi, Chikubujima originated from the conflict between the gods Tatamihiko no Mikoto and Asaihime no Mikoto. According to the legend, Tatamihiko no Mikoto beheaded Asaihime no Mikoto, which fell into the lake and became Chikubujima.

It is also believed that during the formation of the land, the dragon god drove five sacred stakes into the land, one of which was Chikubujima. Chikubujima is considered one of the spiritual origins of Japan.

Founding

According to “Sokoku-fudoki,” Henzumiya was a small shrine built in the 3rd year of the reign of Emperor Yusaku (459) to worship Asaihimenomikoto (Asaihime-no-mikoto). This is believed to be the founding of the shrine. According to another legend, Asaihime no Mikoto (Asaihime no Mikoto) was enshrined on Chikubu Island when Emperor Tenchi built Shiga Palace (Omi-Otsu Palace).

According to Emperor Shomu’s dream, in the first year of the Jingame Era (724), Amaterasu appeared to him and oracle said, “There is a small island in Lake Biwa, which is the sacred place of Benzaiten, so you should build a temple there. Therefore, Gyoki was dispatched to Chikubu Island as an imperial envoy and built a temple (Hogonji Temple) to worship the Great Benzaiten.

In 731, Emperor Shomu himself visited the temple and enshrined Ameno-oshihomi-no-mikoto and Onamuchi-no-mikoto. It is also said that Gyoki carved a statue of Benzaiten and enshrined it as the principal object of worship.

According to the Oei Engi, Gyoki, who visited the temple in 738, sensed something unusual and made statues of the Four Heavenly Kings and enshrined them in a small hall to ensure the peace of the Shoncho and the protection of the nation.

According to the “Teisho Henninki,” when Fujiwara no Nakamaro rebelled in the first year of the Tenpyo Jingo Era (765), the government forces prayed to the deity of Chikubujima and were aided in suppressing Fujiwara no Nakamaro’s rebellion, and the deity was given the rank of fifth cousin to the deity (Hogonji Temple and Tsukubusuma Shrine).

The first historical record of the shrine is a report in “Nihon sandai jitsuroku” (Nihon sandai jitsuroku), which states that “a tree called Renriki, which is a good omen, grew in front of Chikubushima Shrine” in the 3rd year of Genkei (879). In the Engishiki Shinmeicho, the shrine is listed as “Tsukubusuma Shrine, Asai County, Omi Province,” and is listed as a small shrine within the Shiki-uchi-nai system.

Honjijujaku Period

From the late Heian period (794-1185), Ichikishima-hime no Mikoto, who was considered identical to Benzaiten, was also enshrined at the shrine. The Dai-benzaiten, the principal deity of Hogonji Temple, was considered to be the principal Buddha, and the syncretism of Shintoism and Buddhism progressed. Thus, the Tsukubusuma Shrine and Hogonji Temple gradually became one.

Thus, they came to be known as “Chikubujima Daijinguji Temple,” “Chikubujima Gongen,” “Chikubujima Myojin,” and “Chikubujima Benzaiten Shrine / Chikubujima Benzaiten Shrine. In addition to Daijinguten, Chikubujima Gongen has also enshrined the Senju Kannon (Goddess of Mercy) since ancient times, and by the end of the Heian period (794-1185), it had become a sacred place for the 33 sacred places of the Kannon in the western part of Japan.

Even today, it is counted as one of the “Three Benten Temples of Japan,” and Chikubujima Gongen is referred to as “Japan’s oldest Bensaiten” and “the birthplace of Bensaiten.

Since the Middle Ages, Chikubujima Gongen suffered major fires in 1232, 1454, and 1558, and the shrine buildings were destroyed by fire, but were rebuilt each time.

In 1602, Toyotomi Hideyori reconstructed Chikubujima Gongen, and the Karamon gate, Kannondo hall, and a corridor were built. These buildings were transferred from Toyokuni-myo in Higashiyama, Kyoto, or from Higurigoden at Fushimi Castle.

After the Separation of Shinto and Buddhism

In the Meiji period (1868-1912), the new government promoted the separation of Shinto and Buddhism in order to establish a national Shinto religion, and the movement to abolish Buddhism became widespread. Chikubushima Gongen was affected by this movement, and the Otsu Prefectural Government ordered that Chikubushima Gongen Hogonji be abolished and turned into a shrine, renaming it “Tsukubusuma Shrine.

Until then, the Tsukubusuma Shrine was completely part of Hogonji Temple, and its existence was largely forgotten. However, Hogonji was spared from closure at the request of many worshippers, and the temple and shrine coexisted.

In 1874, the boundary between Hogonji and Tsukubusuma Shrine was established, and the main hall became the main building of Tsukubusuma Shrine. 1883 saw the distinction made between temple property and shrine property.

Although Hogonji Temple and Tsukubusuma Shrine are now separate legal entities, the Kannon Hall of Hogonji Temple and the main hall of Tsukubusuma Shrine are directly connected by a corridor, indicating that the two were originally closely connected.

Precincts of the Shrine

Tsukubusuma Shrine is located in the southeastern part of the island. It used to be an integral part of Hogonji Temple, and the site that is now the main shrine was within the island’s precincts.

Main Shrine (National Treasure)

It is said that Toyotomi Hideyori donated a part of Nipporigoden, the imperial palace of Kibayama Fushimi Castle. On the other hand, it is also said that Toyokuni Mausoleum was relocated.

The building is a richly decorative Momoyama-style architecture, with a central building and a peripheral eaves, combining two different buildings.

The main hall was destroyed by fire in 1558 and rebuilt in 1567. The eaves and the muko-ha (shrine building) were moved from another location by Toyotomi Hideyori in 1602, with Katagiri Katsumoto serving as magistrate.

The overall scale of the main hall is 5 ken (girigakuken) and 4 ken (beam spacing), with a hiwadabuki hipped roof. The main building and the eaves are separate buildings, and some parts of the building are incomplete.

The body of the building has black lacquered pillars and beams with decorative metal fittings, and flowers and grasses are painted with hira-makie lacquer. In the center of the front part of the body is a black lacquered door with decorative carvings of chrysanthemum patterns.

The two side rooms are decorated with carvings of chrysanthemums and hibiscuses, and auspicious birds. The door in the center room on the rear side was added later. The center room on both sides has mairado doors on the outside and fusuma doors on the inside. There are also carvings on the back and sides.

The interior of the room is covered with tatami mats and has a folded ceiling. The ceiling is a folded ceiling with a folding top. The kakuma and sliding doors are decorated with chrysanthemums, pine trees, plum trees, paulownia trees, and other plants in gold-plated colors. The entire front side of the eaves is open-air, with decorative carvings in each space above the Uchiho nagishibi.

On both sides of the eaves, the upper section has decorative carvings in all four compartments, and the lower section has carvings of peony arabesques in the three compartments near the front. Some of the carvings on these eaves have been cut off in the middle, and it is thought that they were originally part of another building and were converted to other buildings.

Provincial Shrine

There are three regent shrines on the temple grounds: Amanobihomimi Shrine, Okiki Shrine, and Itsukushima Eshima Shrine. The approach to the shrine used to be a path leading from Ichino-torii to Chikubujima by boat through Hayasaki Village, but now it connects Chikubujima Port to the harbor on Chikubujima.

Sacred Tree

There is a sacred tree on Chikubu Island, and a black dragon is enshrined in the Black Dragon Hall of Hogonji Temple. The sacred tree of Chikubu Island and the Black Dragon Hall are one and the same, and are directly connected to Hogonji Temple.

There is a sacred tree in the precincts of the temple that is said to be a dragon rising from the lake. This sacred tree has been selected as one of the 100 most famous trees in Japan.

The Black Dragon Hall of Hogonji Temple enshrines the Black Dragon, one of the eight great dragon kings, and the hall is built next to the legend of the Black Dragon associated with the sacred tree.

Although Koryu-do and the Hachidairyuu worship hall are not directly connected, this is due to the separation of shrine and temple caused by the Shinto/Buddhist Separation Order in the early Meiji period (1868-1912).

Benzaiten Shrine and Shiromi Shrine are also located within the shrine grounds.

The shrine pavilions of the worship hall

This worship hall enshrines the eight great dragon kings. The official name of the shrine is the “Eight Great Dragon Kings Worship Center,” but it is also commonly referred to as the “Dragon God Worship Center. Chikubu Island is located in the northernmost part of Lake Biwa and commands a panoramic view of the lake’s southern shore.

The shrine is located on a cliff (rocky shore) at the southern end of the island, and a torii gate called “Miyazaki Torii” stands at the edge of the waves. In front of the torii gate is a hall of worship, inside of which is an altar for the dragon god.

On either side of the altar are a pair of statues of Shiromi-taishin (the White Snake God), the messenger of Benzaiten. However, Shiromi no Mikami here is not the messenger of Benzaiten, but the messenger of the dragon god of Lake Biwa.

The custom of throwing straw ropes is still practiced at this place of worship. The purpose of the Kawarake-throwing here is to deliver a wish to the eight great dragon kings who live in the lake and have it fulfilled. Many Kawarake are deposited around the torii gate.

According to “Tale of the Heike” and “Genpei Seikatsuki,” there is also an anecdote that Taira no Tsunemasa played a secret piece on the biwa (lute) of a hermit child in this shrine in 1183.

Joko-den Hall

Jogyoden, used as the shrine office, was built by Genpei Kizawa, a temple and shrine architect, under the supervision of Nobuo Ito, an architectural historian. It is currently used as a training hall and a place of visitation.

Outside the precincts

Hengu Shrine

Hetsumiya is a small shrine, but it is located near the intersection of Prefectural Routes 331 (Sazanami Highway) and 255 on the east side, from which boats to the island were launched during the Middle Ages and early modern times.

First Torii Gate

The first torii gate stands at the northern end of Prefectural Route 255, which runs in front of Henzingu Shrine, in a field in the urban area of Hayasaki Town. The torii gate, with the inscription “Tenmei 6 heigo nenrei ryotatsu” (meaning “the sixth year of the sixth month of the sixth year of Tenmei”), was built in 1786 under the guidance of Eshimaya Jinbei, a merchant from Edo, with the cooperation of local residents.

It is said that the torii gate was made of wood before the 6th year of the Tenmei Era. It is said that visitors in the medieval and early modern periods passed through this torii gate, followed the approach to the west, visited Henzingu Shrine, and then crossed by boat from Hayasaki to Chikubu Island. Therefore, Hayasaki used to be the town in front of the Chikubujima Gongen shrine.

The present Hayasaki and the surrounding villages of Shimoyagi and Tomita, which were located in the southern part of Masuda Township from the Middle Ages to the Azuchi-Momoyama Period, had a custom of serving Chikubujima Gongen, which has continued to the present day. Boats also used to leave from Onoe, located on the northeast shore of Chikubujima.